Hi, gang: I hear from a reasonable amount of folks who leave comments or send me messages asking me to share an idea or suggestion with Adobe for something they’d like to see added/changed/fixed/disabled/etc. in Lightroom Classic but you don’t need me to get your ideas heard. Adobe has a special forum just for you to share ideas directly with the team who monitor those forums daily.
Posting there is your best chance to be heard by the very people who can make it happen.
To increase the chances… …of your idea or suggestion being considered by Adobe, when you post your idea I would recommend being nice. In fact, you should be nice always but especially when asking for someone to do something for you. That’s not an official Adobe thing, but it should be just an official “life” thing.
Are you in Atlanta? I am. I’m up here today, but I’m teaching my full-day “Photoshop for Lightroom Users” seminar here tomorrow. Come on out and spend the day with me. Tickets and Info here.
Call for Entries: You Could Win Your Own Solo Gallery Showing The details are over on my blog today, but if you think you have no chance of winning — you’re in good company. Nobody that has won any of the competition even though they would win (and that’s in their own words). But they did do one important thing — they entered. Here’s the link for how to enter.
Hope I see you in Atlanta tomorrow (or Ft. Lauderdale next Monday).
I regularly get questions pertaining to image sizing in the context of making prints of a given dimension in inches. The conversion from pixel dimensions to a physical print at a given size has always been a confusing one. Let’s say you have a photo (or a series of photos) that you want to upload to some online print service for the purpose of making square prints of 8 inches x 8 inches (fill in whatever print size you prefer). The first decision you need to make to perform the conversion from pixel dimensions to inches is how many pixels do you want to print for every inch of print, which is more commonly referred to as how many pixels per inch or simply PPI.
The number that makes people absolutely jubilant when they hear “PPI” is 300. That’s not to say that you can’t print perfectly good looking images at a PPI (or resolution) value other than 300 PPI, but you can absolutely argue with people on the Internet about it all. day. long.
Seriously though, for the most common print sizes (8 x 10 and smaller) our cameras these days have plenty of pixels in them to just stick to that magic 300 PPI resolution number, create beautiful prints, and avoid wasting hours in unnecessary arguments. So, if you know your pixel dimensions of your photo … wait, what’s that? You’re not sure of how to find a photo’s pixel dimensions in Lightroom? No worries, there’s a few ways to see it.
The first is here in Grid view. Just configure the Grid view style to display Cropped Dimensions in the cell border (here’s how ). It will look like this:
If you are in Loupe view, you can configure the Info Overlay to display Cropped Dimensions (here’s how ). That looks like this:
That even works in Develop’s Loupe view when you have the Crop Tool enabled, so you can see the pixel dimensions after you crop.
So, with my goal of producing a print that was 8 in x 8 in at 300 PPI, my next task would be to crop to a 1:1 (square) aspect ratio, and after doing so, my cropped dimensions change to reflect the crop.
My pixel dimensions for this photo went from 4032 pixels x 3024 pixels to 3024 pixels x 3024 pixels. That’s all fine and straightforward, but the place that makes us scratch our heads is figuring out the size of the print, right? This is where a little math comes in handy. Earlier I mentioned that we are talking about how many pixels per inch of print do we want use, which gives us a clue to the math involved. The formula looks like this:
Pixel dimension / Resolution (PPI) = dimension in inches
So if I plug in my numbers I get: 3024 pixels / 300 PPI = 10.08 inches
Even after my crop I’ve got more pixels than I need to achieve my goal of 8 x 8, and that’s just a photo from my phone. To finish the job of sizing this photo to precisely 8 in x 8 in at 300 PPI my next move would be to click the Export button and configure the Export dialog to achieve my output needs. In my case my needs are a JPG with sRGB color space resized to be my desired dimensions. The key panels on the Export dialog to achieve this are in the File Setting and Image Sizing panel as shown below.
Obviously you’d configure other panels to meet your needs, but those are the two panels that will achieve your desired file type, color space, and sizing for the print. You can even set the Post-Processing step of the Export dialog to open the exported copy into Photoshop, where you can confirm sizing is correct via the Image > Image Size dialog box.
So to review:
Choose your print size
Know your desired print resolution (stick to 300 PPI when in doubt)
Crop your photo to the desired print aspect ratio
Verify you have enough pixels with a tiny bit of math
Configure the Export dialog to save out copies at your desired specifications
If you follow me here, or if you’ve watched my “Simplified Lightroom Image Management” (SLIM) System course (link ) at KelbyOne (or heard me teach it live at my Lightroom seminar), you’ve heard me going on and on about how you can’t rely on just one hard drive to back up your images. I talk about how important is that and that you not only have a have a backup of your backup BUT ALSO a cloud-backup, too! Well, this week, two people desperately needed their backups — for different reasons.
If you ever been to one of my seminars, you’ve seen Dave Gales; he’s my longtime friend and moderator for the seminar tour, and he does the morning announcements, helps out front, and bails me out if one of the projectors goes down and so much more. Anyway, we were in Atlanta on Tuesday for my seminar there and he was telling me how he had backed up his family photos to one hard drive, and all his videos to another drive. He did this backup about 18-months ago, but when he plugged the two drives in last week, BOTH were completely dead. Less than 18-months ago they were brand new drives. Now they’re bricks. Thankfully, we had a cloud backup (He’s been using Crash Plan, and though they’ve stopped doing backup for consumers, he was grandfathered in when they made the announcement, so he will still be able to use them for a couple of more years). Thankfully, he had that cloud backup, or he would have lost his entire family archive.
The week before, I got this email from one of my readers:
“By the way, I now put all my pictures on an external hard drive, got a second one and also took an annual backup license with Backblaze which you recommend in the book. It was a wonderful tip, as my laptop was stolen recently and I could recover all my files. Thank you so much for the tip!!!”
Well, I’m passing this same tip on to you today. Yes, you should absolutely have a backup drive for your backup drive, but having a Cloud backup (I use Backblaze.com – $5 a month unlimited storage) where they automatically provide redundant backups for you, could be the key to saving you from the heartbreaking of losing your entire image library.
This would be a great weekend to set your three-level backup strategy in place. You can watch my new 2018 SLIM System online course for more on all this backup stuff. Here’s the official trailer (below), and a link to the course itself is here.
Have a great weekend everybody — I’m off to shoot the Dolphins game this weekend, and then on Monday I’m doing my last seminar for the year — it’s my “Photoshop for Lightroom Users”full-day seminar – this time in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. Hope you can come out and spend the day with me. Tickets and info here.
P.S.Check out this crazy deal — yesterday Dave texted me about a deal he found on B&H on a 10-Terabyte WD External Hard Drive for just $199 (that’s TEN – count ’em ‚ 10-Terabytes for $199 ($100 off). Here’s the link in case you need one.
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